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Choose where to build

Pick ground that is dry, safe from floods and falling trees, facing the sun, and near water but not too near.

easy⏳ a daytradition — not yet hand-tested

A house is only as good as the ground under it. Build on wet ground and the walls rot. Build in a flood path and one storm takes everything. Build in deep shade and you fight cold and damp forever. One careful day of looking saves you months of misery, so walk slowly and let the land tell you what it does when you are not watching.

The land always leaves clues. Water stains on tree trunks, moss on one side of rocks, a line of driftwood far from the stream — these are the land's memory of its worst days. Your job today is to read them.

You need

Steps

  1. Stand at your water source and walk outward. Good sites sit 50 to 200 paces from water — close enough to carry a bucket without dread, far enough that a flood or a rising stream never reaches your floor.
  2. Look for high, gently sloping ground. A slight slope (you barely notice walking it) lets rain run away from the house instead of pooling under it. Avoid the very top of a hill — wind hits hardest there — and avoid the bottom of a valley, where cold air and water both collect at night.
  3. Read the flood clues. Look for:
    • Dried mud or a line of leaves and sticks caught in bushes — that is how high water once rose. Build well above it.
    • Plants that love wet feet: reeds, rushes, willows. Where they grow, the ground is wet for part of the year.
    • Dark, squishy soil. Push your stick in — if it sinks easily or the hole fills with water, walk on.
  4. Check the sun. In the northern half of the world, a slope facing south catches the most sun; in the southern half, face north. Morning sun on your doorway dries the dew and warms you cheaply. Note where shadows fall at midday.
  5. Look up before you look down. Stand where the house will be and check every tree within falling distance — a tree can reach as far as it is tall. Dead trees, leaning trees, and trees with big dead branches (people call these widow-makers, because they kill) must come down first or you must move.
  6. Check what the wind does. Face the direction storms usually come from — locals, moss patterns, and bent trees all tell you. A rise, a rock face, or a stand of healthy trees on that side is a free windbreak.
  7. Test the ground itself. Dig or poke a hole a forearm deep. You want firm soil — packed earth, gravel, clay that holds its shape. Loose sand shifts; pure soft muck sinks.
  8. Mark the spot and sleep on it. Push stakes into the corners of a rough square, then come back the next morning. If dew is heavy there, if it feels cold, if something bothers you — trust that and look again. A day's delay is cheap.

Watch out

How it works

Water always runs downhill and cold air does too — it flows like slow, invisible water and pools in low ground at night. That is why a spot halfway up a gentle sun-facing slope wins: rain drains past you, cold air slides below you, and the sun does part of your heating for free. Everything else in this guide is just reading the marks that water, wind, and gravity left behind.

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